How to get the best out of make up when you have a different colour skin tone.
Ruth Tong is an international special effects and fashion make up artist and has been in the industry for 9 years. Her creative imagination and artistic nature inspires her work using make up to transform faces for production purposes. Ruth’s experiences in make up artistry, beauty, fashion design and styling, gives her the right credentials in the field of styling people to create new looks.
Her work has taken her all over the world in places such as the USA, Europe, South America and Asia. She has worked with top television networks, such as the BBC, Ch4, the Travel Channel and HBO. Ruth is now concentrating on getting more involved in Oriental projects and sharing her knowledge with you.
Applying make up on a Chinese face
Applying make up can be a frightening concept, if you’re not equipped with the correct knowledge and equipment. You will realise that applying make up can be fun, once you’ve learned the basics. All you need is the right colours, the right brushes and the confidence to apply your make up. Make up should emphasise your beauty, to accentuate your best features. Remember.. a small amount at a time goes a long way. Don’t apply a thick mask to hide your natural Chinese beauty. By Ruth
The right products
Chinese people tend to have flatter rounder faces, with narrow eyes and a small nose, so it is important to choose the right make up to enhance these features. It’s always good to use a good foundation and there are so many to choose from ; liquid, cream, cream to powder, mineral, hypo allergenic and many more.
For a day look, I recommend a tinted moisturiser or liquid foundation as oriental people don’t need to wear much make up. For an evening look, you can use a cream based foundation, depending on your skin type to create a more flawless look.
Chinese skin tones
For Chinese skin tones, choose a foundation with a yellow undertone. Many Oriental women think it’s best to wear pink tones to counteract their natural skin tone but this creates an unnatural and outdated look. Using yellow based products does not give you a more yellow look but a more modern look.
Apply your foundation with a brush, this will give your skin a more even coverage and finish.
If your skin has a tendency to shine, use a shine control foundation and a powder. It’s best to apply the powder all over the face with a brush. M.A.C do a great blot powder compact, which absorbs excess sebum to give a more matt complexion for longer. You can lengthen a round face by brushing triangles of blusher from the apples of the cheeks, out to the temples.
“There’s different ways to apply your eye make up, depending the look you want to create and achieve”
The most important factor in deciding which colours and how to apply the eye-shadow, you have to consider how much fold you have on the eyelids. Oriental eyes don’t have much fold, so we have to do contouring and shading to enhance our eyes.
It’s best to apply the eye-shadow to begin with and then build up the colour to achieve the desired look. You can alter the shape and look of the eyes by using eye make up. Trace the brow bone with your finger to get the feel of the eye. Use brushes to apply the eye-shadow. This will give you more control of the application.
For Oriental eyes, apply highlighter under the brow. Use a lighter shade in the inner half of the eye and a darker for the outer. This will open your eyes…
Brown eyes can pretty much take most colours, so depending on the occasion, you’re free to co-ordinate colours with your outfits. Wear warm tones for a more natural day look, such as pinks and apricots. For a more intense evening look; copper, bronze , chocolate tones and metallic.
Apply black or brown eyeliner on top of the lash line. Wing the eyeliner slightly out to the sides. This requires a bit of patience and practice. To get a more precise and defined line, work with a gel or liquid eyeliner. This will emphasise the eyes.
Oriental people tend to have straight eyelashes, so I recommend a good eyelash curler such as Shu uerma and a good mascara on top and bottom of the lashes for fuller looking eyes.
Olive oil can boost the affect of fuller looking eyes, if you have shorter lashes. Pour a few drops onto a cotton pad or ball and massage into the lashes. This will also act as a make up remover and to condition the eyelashes.
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